Fashion Week…Paris. Need I say more?…
The much missed departure of Alber Elbaz last season left some pretty hefty shiny shoes to fill at the oh so glamorous Parisian house, thus Bouchra Jarrar has the perplexing challenge of reinventing the Lanvin woman. The real test was emblematised on day two of Paris Fashion Week, where an air of modification transpired.
Essences of a girl adorned in a tsunami of glittering crystals and silk evening gowns were not a million miles from the house’s muse, except this season adopted noticeably more nonchalant silhouettes and luxe lounge dressing, with a particular emphasis on daywear.
From the inception, one witnessed a reoccurring palette of timeless monochrome that signalled new beginnings. A relaxed white trouser suite with a floor length striped shirt layered; black diaphanous chiffon dresses; delicate whites were further decorated with ethereal feathering, and black spaghetti strap, glitter encrusted mini’s emerged. Jackets and waistcoats were seen adorned with crystal corsages that provided eye-catching opulence.
A romantic cavalcade of cobalt blue chiffon dresses paraded; some so gossamer that the naked body was sexily revealed. Similar styling’s were showcased but this time slashed in super beautiful, feminine floral prints, which echoed the house’s original ladylike aura.
The mood suggested a relaxed glamour, transitioning Jarrar nicely into the new director’s chair.
Former half part creative director of Valentino for seven years, Maria Grazia Chiuri celebrated her success at the helm of Christian Dior for the Parisian house’s Spring/Summer 2017 showcase. Being in good company with attendees such as Kate Moss, Natalie Portman and Jennifer Lawrence amongst others, her solo debut collection illustrated divergent influences from fencing and feminism.
“It is a sport for the heart and the mind and it brings men and women onto equal ground,” said Chiuri who further elaborated how the sporting uniform is worn the same between both sexes, with Dior’s latest collection uniting masculine and feminine elements into wearable dressing.
An amalgamation of ethereal, floor sweeping gossamer gowns were adorned in the most beautiful heart embroideries and zodiac illustrative drawings, which were a poetic juxtaposition against tough fencing gilets, leather biker jackets and sports boots. These stunning tulle embroidered eveningwear creations were not only a nod to Chiuri’s Valentino signature spectacles but were also cemented as the shows standout pieces.
The collection was segregated into conspicuous colour schemes with clear sections of stark whites, sexy blacks and ruby reds. Often when a look edged towards being masculine, a feminine twist would be its complimentary counterbalance; i.e. staple reoccurring fencing tops styled with stitched romantic heart details and otherworldly flouncy skirts.
Tailored trends occurred throughout with especially the fencing garments appearing sharp and smart, whilst sculptured fitted jackets, high waist fitted trousers and long smart coats echoed a masculine edge. Maria Grazia Chiuri championed mannish tailoring on the day also.
“Christian Dior” was seen illustrated onto wide ribbon cream straps that decorated tops, waistbands, bra straps and shoe sling backs. The bags did not disappoint either; arriving with a shiny brass CD logo with chucky guitar straps, in jacquard, or black and white.
A strong Dior collection with lots to lust after.
Despite what trends and looks are emerging from either corner of fashion week, the McQueen collections always seem to adopt that extra special something; especially when taking into consideration aspects such as significance, execution, and of course, craftsmanship. McQueen just has it. Spring/Summer 2017 proved to be no exception, with Sarah Burton continuing to deliver a show that somehow topped her last one.
The Shetland Islands with its enchanting seaside panoramas acted as her starting point and continued its travels onto Burton’s catwalk flooring, where hand-sewn taatit rugs ultimately reflected the landscapes hilly terrain. Knitwear pieces, an iconic McQueen style staple, had a taste of the Fair Iles essence also, with artisanal colours that imbued puffed sleeved jumpers, dresses, and cute cropped cardigans.
Long-sleeved maxi dresses designed out of the finest lace from Shetland were juxtapose with toughened cool girl black leather bralets that came decorated in silver studs and further accented with tinkling bells. A sense of reinforced femininity came through, or rather the reoccurring theme as a result of mannish V’s girlishness appeared with these hard-core bralets seen styled with floaty, ditzy print maxi dresses with puffball sleeves. Heavy charm chokers, black lace military boots, along with cropped black leather jackets only further enhanced Mcqueen’s toughened concept against the feminine delicacy of the ethereal blooming dresses.
Lee’s Savile Row humble beginnings, where his artistic dexterousness emerged was reflected in the collections plaid suiting, seen in exquisite lace sharp tailored blazers, cropped flared trousers and mini kilts. Furthermore, his heritage tweed patterning also adorned coats, fitted jackets and trousers.
Not excluding the finale showstoppers; silk ivory “shipwrecked” gowns immersed in metallic sequins and adorned with shredded lathered trains. The entire collection impregnated nothing if not all-embracing desirability.
By Katie Farley